An American in Germany / Part # 22 / Lake Königsee-3

GAPP Exchange Journal 2012

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Tour of Lake Königsee / Return Voyage

Boat Emerging from Lake Königsee

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Our boat sailed back across the lake giving me a replay of all the beautiful sights I had previously encountered.  We stopped briefly at St. Bartholomä to pick up additional passengers wishing to return back to Königsee and within minutes the boat was filled to capacity.  We cast off for the final leg our our journey with less than an hour remaining before I was scheduled to be picked up by the big rock thingy... kind of near McDonald's!  After coming ashore I had a few minutes to rehydrate with an ice cold Coca-Cola Light and explore the shops along the way with exterior merchandise on display.  Many people were browsing through the traditional clothing store selling authentic women's dirndl and men's lederhosen along with hats and every accessory you would ever need.  There were several vendors selling salt lamps, a popular souvenir with a unique Berchtesgaden twist.  The lamps are carved from a large chunk of mineral rock salt taken from one of the local mines.  The center of the rock chunk is hollowed out to make room for a light bulb, which causes the salt to glow with a pinkish or bight orange hue.  I was tempted since they were reasonably priced but wasn't sure how fragile it was or if the lamp would survive the long flight home in a suitcase.  There were also traditional hand carved wooden cuckoo clocks and birdhouses, along with the standard postcards, key chains, t-shirts, and you can guess the rest.  The souvenir shops were complimented by every variety of food imaginable, which was extremely tempting but I passed them by to make sure my ride home hadn't arrived early.

Shops Along the Walkway of Königsee

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Following a few brief pit stops along the walkway, I went directly to our meeting spot not wanting my hosts to have to wait for me.  However, the Mittermeier clan or their BMW wagon were nowhere to be seen.  I wanted to stay close by so I wouldn't miss them but I was also very hungry by this point.  I needed to get something to eat and fast but could I really stoop so low as to go the route of fast food?  The previously mentioned McDonald's was about fifty yards behind me on the extreme edge of the Königsee parking area and was beginning to look more alluring my the minute.  The only other quick option was to get another bratwurst from the sidewalk vender who was even further away but... been there done that twice already.  In all honesty, I was a little curious to see how well the Germans could duplicate the finest American fast food cuisine on the planet.  Before I could stop myself I was following my stomach across the parking lot toward the home of the Golden Arches and the big creepy clown himself, Ronald McDonald.  I had been eating the traditional foods for nearly two straight weeks and thought it might be nice to get a little taste of home in the form of a quintessential franchise quality burger and fries.  I walked through the door and aside from a few decorative differences, I was indeed within a little satellite embassy of the United States.  Here, I could order from the overhead menu without hesitation as Big Mac translates in any language to... Big Mac!

Ronald McDonald Bavarian Style

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I ordered my usual meal by number and you can't help but appreciate the simplicity and efficiency of a fast food restaurant, which often runs as good as a high quality Swiss watch.  I encountered three noticeable differences during my Bavarian fast food experience, starting with the option of choosing between two different style fries, American or Regular.  I went with the American choice, assuming they would be the standard version but instead, was served thick cut steak fries.  Otherwise the food seemed identical to their counterparts on the other side of the Atlantic.  The other two differences dealt with the physical design of the building, most likely due to cultural differences.  The McCafe coffee house was a separate entity from the food restaurant part of McDonald's.  Although the two were joined together in the same building, they were separated by an interior wall with their own individual entrances.  So if you wanted a cup of coffee to compliment your hot apple pie to go, you had to venture next door and get in line again.  And finally, there was a large outdoor seating area resembling McDonald's attempt to incorporate the traditional local biergarten flair into the property's design.  I purchased my meal with cash since few businesses in Germany seem to accept debit or credit forms of plastic payment and took a seat outside so I could watch for my ride.  The seats were crowded with patrons from both halves of the McDonald's / McCafe franchise and seemed to be enjoying the foreign American fare, complimented by the amazing mountain views.

 My View While Eating a Big Mac

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One downside to my dining experience outdoors was most people sitting around me were smoking cigarettes to compliment their meal.  During my experience in Germany, I noticed cigarette smoking seemed to be a much more common practice than in the United States.  I guesstimate more than half of the people I met were at least casual smokers compared with approximately 5% of the people I know, work, and associate with back home.  The steak cut fries were ok but I missed the shoestring style that is the standard healthy vegetable side-dish served with a number one from the extra value menu.  I ate my fast food fast, as I suddenly had the uncomfortable feeling I was doing something wrong, maybe even illegal!  The clock was approaching 4:00 and I hoped Klaus and company would show up on time since a storm had been gathering and was looking more ominous by the minute.  Large dark grey storm clouds began spilling over the top ridge of the Alps and concealed the familiar sharp outline of the mountain peaks.  I left McDonald's and moved over to a bench that had become available up against the large rock formation at the edge of the parking lot  and hoped the rain would hold off a little longer.  I was soon joined by a family of four who spoke fluent English with a unique accent.  We exchanged pleasantries and they turned out to be from Minnesota, visiting relatives in Bavaria.  My second interaction with full blooded Americans encountered during my travels in Germany.  As if on cue, as the clock struck 4:00, the familiar Mittermeier family car came into view.  I was greeted with large smiles from my hosts who all seemed relived their package was still in one piece.  Against all odds, I had not gotten lost, fallen into the lake and drown, and had made it back to the rendezvous point on time.  We sped off toward home, managing to outrun the storm, leaving several impressive flashes of lightning in our wake.

Storm Clouds Spill Over the Alps

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We gave each other the play by play of our adventures and all the amazing things we witnessed along the way.  I didn't tell them I ate at McDonalds, which I doubt the Mittermeiers frequented very often, in fact, most likely never!  I was glad that I stayed at sea level today since I heard the hike was somewhat challenging for a few rookies who went along and only made the midway point of the climb.  I would have most likely joined them!  Lake Königsee was one of the most amazing places I have ever visited and was probably the main highlight of my entire trip.  It seemed almost every other day, my host Andy was asking me to determine what place I liked best so far, wanting me to compare and contrast each adventure and pick an overall favorite.  I never gave him a straight answer because to be perfectly honest, I really wasn't sure.  However, after returning home and having some time to let in all sink in, Königsee was special, magnificent in every way.  I also think I enjoyed going out solo, exploring, and discovering on my own in a foreign land.  We still had a long ride home and even though I didn't go hiking high up in the Alps, I had been walking all around the lake for at least five hours and I was starting to feel worn out.  Sitting down in the comfortable leather seats of the BMW, with the hum of the engine, and the rolling motion of the road, I suddenly hit the wall!  Within ten minutes Rosi, Linda and her son in the back seat were fading fast but Klaus was still somewhat charged and alert, as only he could be.  It was a good thing since he had to stay focused on the twisting mountain roads for the next hour and a half.  I fought sleep to keep Klaus company and we talked most of the way home as he entertained me with adventurous stories of the beautiful mountains he loves so much. 

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Twisting Roads of Southeast Bavaria

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The weekend was now over and what an amazing two days of exploration and discovery it had been, traveling to the city of Passau on Saturday followed by Lake Königsee on Sunday.  The next morning it was back to school, followed by a walk downtown with Andy and Wendy to visit Altötting and have some lunch.  We stopped by a little cafe where we had been before, located right on the far edge of the Church Plaza.  What to order... Once again I was looking for something different.  On the other hand, yesterday I evaluated how Germany did McDonald's... so I was suddenly wondering how they did pizza.  The cafe had multiple selections of personal sized small pizzas and with the help of my dual translation team, I ordered a Bavarian / Italian style pizza.  My hometown seems to have an abundance of banks and pizza joints and both businesses seem to offer very similar items across the board within their individual domains.  As far as pizza goes, taste and preference matters a lot less than how far you feel like driving or if you have a coupon that hasn't expired yet.  The personal sized mini pizza was delivered to the table and had a unique foreign appearance, unfamiliar throughout my extensive past pizza consumption.  The crust was flat and appeared to be covered with a variety of delicatessen meats and cheeses native to Europe. The large slices of pepperoni, salami, and ham were complimented by mushrooms, onions, and some type of long slender banana peppers.  It tasted amazing, hands down the best pizza I have ever eaten in my life and after returning home, I began a unsuccessful quest beyond the borders of my hometown of Lititz, PA to find something comparable.

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Altötting Does Pizza Awesome!

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After having the afternoon off to rest, relax, and recharge in my attic flat at the Galneder Family home back in Tüßling, I was told we were all invited over to the home of Angela's parents for a special supper.  I had heard about the legendary culinary skills of Angela's father Erwin Schadhauser more than once and was looking forward to the chance to experience his cuisine in person.  The Schadhauser family lived a short distance away from the Galneder home within Tüßling on the other side of the main road that cut through town.  Andy and Angela have a great situation with two sets of retired parents who are more than willing to provide child care to free mom and dad up for a night off.  Tonight Leo and Amelie had gone downstairs to Andy's parents and I later learned that poor little Leo wasn't feeling too well.  The Schadhauser residence was the traditional Bavarian white stucco structure accented with richly stained natural woods.  As I may have mentioned before, homes in Bavaria are expensive to build but are rock solid and constructed with the highest quality materials.  The terracotta roof tiles last a lifetime but are heavy and need a solid foundation underneath to support their weight.  The oversize decorative front door was solid wood and about four inches thick and must have weighed several hundred pounds.  Nothing is made of plastic, particle board, or drywall.  We walked straight through the beautiful house to the enclosed back porch and into the backyard.  Mr. Schadhauser was sporting a black apron embroidered with letters that spelled out Grillmeister or Grill Master.  He had a tripod set up supporting a cast iron pot simmering over an open wood fire.  Village famous chef, Erwin Schadhauser of Tüßling East, was cooking up a batch of his famous old world goulash.

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Backyard Chef Erwin Schadhauser
(Image Credit / Wendy Andrews)

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Klaus had driven Wendy over to join the party and Angela's two brothers and some friends also were in attendance.  The bulk of the Schadhauser backyard and accompanying flower gardens were actually off to the side of the house because a few feet off the back deck was a small canal-like stream.  The other side of the canal was cloaked with green foliage but a small bridge spanned the water.  It was a very peaceful scene, further expressed when a family of ducks swam by on their merry way against the slow current.  I asked if they ever worried about flooding but the stream was actually some sort of canal where water could be diverted around town during major rain events.  Erwin said rumor has it the canal only truly floods once every century.  Chef Erwin went to his task putting the finishing touches on his stew that looked and smelled delicious.  Within minutes we were brought inside by Angela's mother Marie to the enclosed porch, which had large glass windows from floor to ceiling on all sides, giving the feeling we were still outside.  The sun room had a large simple heavy wooden table set with dishes and we all took our seats as Erwin began to serve his goulash and loaves of crusty bread made their way around the table.  Marie pushed open several of the large window walls, which rolled on tracks to open the space to let the cool evening breeze inside.  The sun room converted into a open porch in seconds!  Erwin proudly dished out his goulash giving me the first plate as the guest of honor and I was happy to announce to the group how delicious it tasted.  Food, drink, and conversation flowed freely around the table but I noticed Angela and Andy had suddenly disappeared.  Apparently, Angela had suddenly felt ill and Andy had taken her home.  Since she was expecting, I assumed it was related to her pregnancy.  However, little Leo had brought home a bug from kindergarten that would slowly conquer the entire extended family!  

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Peaceful Tüßling Canal

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Please stayed tuned for the next installment of our adventure!

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PLEASE SEE MY ADDITIONAL PHOTOS 

ASSOCIATED WITH THIS BLOG POSTING AT...

http://www.flickr.com/photos/mrjmartin/collections/72157631214151294/

YOU CAN ALSO CHECK OUT THE WHOLE SERIES IN ORDER AT...

 https://www.warwicksd.org/teacherweb/module.php?id=7644&tid=241 

An American in Germany / Part # 21 / Lake Königsee-2

GAPP Exchange Journal 2012

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Tour of Lake Königsee / St. Bartholomä

St. Bartholomä Catholic Chapel
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The boat cruised up to the pier of St. Bartholomä, tied up to the dock, and the captain gave the all clear for all passengers going ashore to exit the vessel.  There was so much to see and the clock was ticking before the time came where I would have to rendezvous with my ride back at the parking lot.  I had to hustle and it took some time for the jam packed vessel to empty.  The church site first began as a hunting lodge way back in the 12th Century and although the original structure is long gone, a hunting lodge has always accompanied the chapel on the peninsula.  The hunting lodge was reserved for royalty and was last used as a outdoor retreat by members of the House of Wittelsbach who took control of the area in 1810.  Today the lodge building has been reinvented as a popular restaurant and beirgarten, which patrons can reach only by using the cruise ships.  It would be worth the trouble; where else could you enjoy a meal with such a spectacular view.  I followed the foot path and rounded the perimeter of the church and decided to skip the chapel's interior for a walk along the Lake Königsee shoreline.  The incredible mountains loomed high above, creating a backdrop scene that was so awe inspiring, it was hard to accept as genuine.  There were a few couples in rowboats out on the lake and one elderly pair appeared as if they might be multitasking as nudist sun bather boaters!  Thankfully, I would have needed to use my zoom lens to find out for sure and decided to focus on the geological natural beauty of Mother Nature instead.   I continued on my merry way down the sandy path away from the boaters before either passenger suddenly decided to stand up!  Thank you for not sharing!  

Sandy Path Along the Shoreline

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The mountain face along the lake was scarred with several long rough hewn crooked lines that ran perpendicular to the lake.  They were carved into the solid rock by the rushing waters that only appear when the mountain top snows of winter submit and give way to the spring thaw.  Now in July, they appeared as dry cuts in the mountain face and would remain so until they would transform back into mountain streams flush with falling water in late March.  The path along the lake continued to wind through the shade of trees that shrouded from view the destined route ahead.  Once I started following along, it was impossible to stop, curiously determined to see where it would lead.  There were rustic wooden benches along the water's edge, which invited me to stop for a few minutes to take a drink of water and listen to the sound of the small waves of the lake lap against the rocks.  I encountered very few other people on the trail, enhancing the peaceful atmosphere of the lake, woods, and surrounding mountains.  As I continued onward toward the end of the shoreline, the pathway appeared like it might just run straight into the side of the rock wall of the mountain but then suddenly took a ninety degree turn into the forest.  The trees were tall and full of green foliage, serving as a curtain for the grand spectacle just beyond my line of sight.  Every once in a while, a hole in the canopy above provided a hint of the hidden majestic giants known as the fabled Alps of the Watzmann Range.  The wooded pathway began to open up into a man-made clearing that finally revealed the incredible grandeur of the rugged mountains overhead.  

Watzmann Massif above St. Bartholomä

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The mountains were so impressive!  Despite the summer heat, many crevices still contained pockets of winter snow still visible in defiance of the bright warm rays of the sun.  In fact, the mountain group is home to the Watzmann Glacier that is broken up into several pieces contained within several cirques.  Previously in recession like most glaciers in the world, the Watzmann Glacier has recovered over the past two decades and now is the size of about 25 acres.  There was a fork in the trail marked with signs designating one route heading back to St. Bartholomä and the other snaking through the forest toward the Eiskapella, which translates as Ice Chapel.  The Eiskapella geotope is one of the lowest and most accessible permanent ice and snow fields contained within the Alps.  The ice field is fed each year by heavy snow and ice avalanches during winter that collect within the basin.  In summer the site can be reached by an hour and a half long hike by way of the path in front of me, which can be steep and challenging the final 30 minutes.  The geotope gets the name Ice Chapel from the arched concave shape created in spring and summer when the ice melts and water erodes through the bottom half level of the ice.  You can even walk inside but at your own risk since it is far from stable.  I wish I would have had the time but headed back toward St. Bartholomä to continue my journey to the far end of the lake.  The walk through the wide path in the woods towards the shore really did remind me of the Middle Creek nature preserve back home since the majestic mountains were once again concealed behind me by the trees.

 Small Farm / Big Mountains

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As I continued down the tranquil path through the woods, the area opened up to reveal a small farm, accompanying barn, and cleared green grassy meadow.  It was a scene right out of German folklore and I wouldn't have been a bit surprised if Heidi and her grandfather suddenly appeared in the doorway.  Keeping an eye on the clock I made my way back to the dock and boarded the next vessel heading out to the far edge of Lake Königsee known as the Salet.  It would be another half hour ride until we reached our destination.  I once again found a seat near an open window directly behind the captain's seat.  What a great job to have!  You couldn't get a better office window view anywhere else in the world.  Plus, the panoramic view was constantly changing as the ship moved forward across the water.  And, you could never get lost!  I could only imagine what the view contained during the other three seasons of the year.  The deep emerald green water was again a unique attractive characteristic of the unfolding scene during our voyage.  I just wanted to jump in for a swim as the water looked inviting in the heat of early afternoon.  I later learned that swimming is not permitted in the lake, not that you would want to try it even if you could...  The water temperature of Lake Königsee rarely rises above a frigid 65 degrees, even on a hot day like today.  The entire area is part of the area known as Berchtesgaden National Park, ensuring the beauty of nature will be preserved and protected for future generations.  As award wining documentary film maker Ken Burns stated... National Parks, our best idea ever!

Lonely Cabin on the Lake

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As we sailed down the center of the lake we passed by a small log cabin on a tiny peninsula that looked like a scene right off one of those hunting calenders from back in the day that were always hanging up at the local barber shop.  Ok, I want to be a boat captain of a cruise ship on Lake Königsee and I want to live... right there!  It was so rugged but so beautiful... For a moment, I thought I had walked right into the pages of Field and Stream Magazine.  It was like a dream come true but was so far away and remained out of reach.  A few minutes later we sailed within view of a beautiful cascading waterfall on the opposite side of the lake.  The white water of the Schrainbach Falls tumbles down from a height of about 265 feet.  Although we were quite a distance away, the powerful sound of the falling water could easily be heard as it thundered into the lake.  What a place!  It was simply breathtaking and I was once again in awe, completely surrounded by the abundant beauty of nature!  Another tour boat came into view behind us but was running within 25 yards of the far shoreline and came to a stop just in front of the base of the waterfall.  I think I just discovered the difference between first, second, and third class tickets... the higher the price, the closer the view of key points of interest.  Apparently, third class put you on a track straight down the middle of the lake, causing the zoom feature on your camera to get a workout!  Regardless, I was still going to get all the way to the other end of the lake and the landing of the Salet was now within view.                

Schrainbach Falls on Lake Königsee

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The boat silently glided to a graceful stop alongside the dock and it was time to go ashore again.  There had been a lot less passengers on board than during the first half voyage to St. Bartholomä.  Fewer people journey all the way to the Salet, which takes an additional 35 minutes and has fewer amenities.  It was clear, St. Bartholomä had top billing on Lake Königsee!  Nevertheless, I was off on another quest to see what was beyond the shoreline of the lake.  At the Salet, despite an abundance of trees, nothing was hidden from view as the mountains soared overhead.  There was a gentle sloping meadow that fell from the base of the mountain side all the way down to the edge of the lake.  A traditional German style farmhouse was situated in between and the clank of cow bells could be heard from grazing livestock navigating up and down the slope.  The cows appeared to have free range of most of the Salet and the bells helped the farmer find any who had strayed from the herd.  Another picture straight out of a storybook.  After a short walk along the edge of the lake, the path turned into the shade of the woods.  Off to one side was a nice former alpine styled lodge that had been turned into a restaurant and biergarten.  It looked inviting but after sitting on the boat for over a half hour, I was eager to stretch my legs and continued down the path until I came to a wooden bridge spanning a rushing rocky mountain stream that emptied into the lake.  There were large boulders strewn about the meadow, some were huge and even had decent sized trees growing out from their tops.  They appeared to be debris left over from the last ice age when glaciers carved out the perpendicular cliffs of the surrounding mountains.

 Salet Lakeside Alpine Farmhouse

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It was a landscape unlike anything I had ever seen in my life, enchanting beyond description.  Above the farmhouse at the base of the mountain the grade of the rock face climbed to soaring heights of a minimum of 7,000 feet.  It would be quite a feeling to be the farmer working and living every day in the shadow of such a mountainous giant watching overhead.  There was less area to explore so the pathway was more crowded with people of all ages.  I continued along the path bordered by unique rock formations, which were accented with wildflowers and covered in various shades of lichens.  On the opposite side of the path was a forest thick with large, green shade and evergreen trees.  Looming high above the linear line of the forest was the sheer rock wall of a ridge that ran parallel with my course along the path.  I didn't realize it beforehand but the path eventually led to another body of water known as Obersee Lake.  The lake was much smaller and connected to Lake Königsee by way of the mountain stream I had passed over on the wooden bridge.  The surface of the water was as smooth as glass and reflected a mirrored image of colors from above onto the water.  The lake appeared to be fed by a slender waterfall barely visible in the distance known as Röthbach Falls that drops from an amazing height of 1,540 feet, the highest in all of Germany.  There was a trail that continued on toward the far end of the moraine but common sense dictated I would never have enough time to complete the round trip.  I still had an hour long voyage ahead of me back across the entire lake, so I decided just to admire it from a distance.  It was time to start retracing my steps back toward the Salet dock but I decided to take a slightly different route off the beaten path and trek directly through the hillside pasture.  The dairy cows were nowhere to be seen and had either been collected by the farmer or had moved on to greener pastures... I couldn't resist that one!  The area was incredibly lush, green, and just beautiful, sloping down toward the emerald lake.

Boat Shed Lake Obersee

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I walked back over the rushing mountain stream and made my way toward the Salet pier but no ship was currently docked.  I was really getting hungry so I took the layover opportunity to try and order something to eat at the lodge restaurant.  However, chickened out after discovering I would have to order orally from an overhead menu and I doubt they would understand my Germlish.  Instead, I decided to  wait until I returned to the mainland where there would be a much greater variety of food ordering environments.  Soon my ship came in... literally!  I went aboard, nestled into my normal seat location, and sat back ready to enjoy the ride.  One of the crew members who greeted me as I boarded noticed I was American and struck up a nice conversation with me.  I think he was practicing his English by asking me anything he could think of including where I was meeting up with my party for my ride home.  I had no way to really describe the big rock near the parking lot so simplified my answer to "McDonald's" which was located nearby.  He started rattling off the names of his favorite menu selections and informed me of a recent change where they increased the size of the Big Mac to the standard larger American sized portion.  Apparently, it was a third smaller and struck a nerve with this guy who obviously felt a little cheated!  If you're gonna eat American, you gotta go all the way to get the "full" experience!  Our sparsely filled tour boat soon departed from the dock of the Salet for the open waters of Lake Königsee...  Bon Voyage...

Mountainside Cattle Pasture

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Please stayed tuned for the next installment of our adventure!

 PLEASE SEE MY ADDITIONAL PHOTOS
ASSOCIATED WITH THIS BLOG POSTING AT...

http://www.flickr.com/photos/mrjmartin/collections/72157631214151294/
  
YOU CAN ALSO CHECK OUT THE WHOLE SERIES IN ORDER AT...

 https://www.warwicksd.org/teacherweb/module.php?id=7644&tid=241 

     

An American in Germany / Part # 20 / Lake Königsee-1

GAPP Exchange Journal 2012

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Tour of Lake Königsee / Berchtesgaden

Arriving at Lake Königsee, Berchtesgaden

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Sunday was approaching and Wendy's host family Klaus and Rosi Mittermeier planned to lead a group hike in the mountains of the Alps near Berchtesgaden.  We had previously taken our Warwick students to the area to tour an underground salt mine and later visited Hitler's mountain top chateau, Eagle's Nest.  Klaus and Rosi are both avid hikers and were even planning to climb Mount Kilimanjaro in Tanzania, Africa later this summer.  The planned group hike was for any students and accompanying host family members interested in going hiking in the Alps and they wanted to know if I might be interested in coming along.  The trip had been on the calendar for quite some time and originally I was all in, picturing Julie Andrews twirling around in song amid a meadow full of wild flowers in the famous scene from the movie Sound of Music.  Yeah, I could do that!  However, after seeing the Alps in person, they were in fact... really intimidating, extremely high, full of sharp rocky cliffs, and way out of my league.  Klaus said the plan was to hike a short distance up the mountainside by following a steep pathway and it would take most of the day.  All I heard were the words "steep" and "all day" and realized this might be a very painful adventure.  I didn't want to appear like a wimp but my hiking experience was mostly limited to the Middle Creek wildlife conservation area near my home and this was so far beyond the lowly peaks (hilltops) of Lancaster and Lebanon Counties in Pennsylvania.  Hiking in the Alps sounded great but fighting exhaustion for 10 hours and risking a heart attack to look out over a nice view was not my idea of fun!  That's why they invented postcards!    

Hotel Königsee Biergarten 

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So, due to concerns for my health, safety, and comfort level, I decided to pass on the hike high up in the Alps and looked for an alternative activity that required a lot less energy and danger.  Thinking I might be able to tag along with the group and find something else to visit, I checked out a map of the area hoping to find a nearby town or some other attraction that peaked my interest.  I was happy to discover the group was planning to climb at a location in the area close to Lake Königsee.  About a week ago, we stopped by the lake for a bite to eat just before we departed for home from our class trip to the Berchtesgaden area.  I was hoping to get an opportunity to return and explore Lake Königsee by taking a boat tour out over the open water.  This could be my chance!  I asked Klaus and Rosi how difficult it would be to drop me off in the valley below where they were hiking for the day.  No problem at all!  So, I was going with the group to go hiking in the Alps after all.  Well, kind of... at least for the ride in the car to Berchtesgaden and back.  Wendy had arrived to pick me up and drove me to the Mittermeier residence in the town of Garching along the Alz River.  Several families and students who signed on for the hike arrived and were organized into car pool groups.  We were soon driving off in a convoy of cars toward the Alps to the southeast.  I joined Klaus and Rosi for the ride along with a family friend named Linda and her son.  I was assigned the front passenger seat once again, this time in a BMW wagon, one of the most popular models in Germany.  Although rarely seen in the United States, the BMW, Mercedes, and Audi wagons are very popular in Europe for those who can afford them because you can easily fit a pair of bicycles in the large rear compartment. 

 Berchtesgaden Alps / Waltzmann Range

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Klaus was one of the people I met during my stay in Bavaria who I always enjoyed talking and spending time with.  I never met a more friendly man so full of happiness, laughs, and humor... you just couldn't help but have fun in his company.  An hour and a half later we arrived at the hiking drop-off point.  I was hoping Lake Königsee was close enough that I could just walk there myself but Klaus said it was too far and he insisted on driving me all the way to the lake.  The rest of the group would start the hike and Klaus would catch up later.  Since Klaus was a serious hiker and climber he would easily be able to catch up with the hiking group after dropping me off.  In fact, Wendy later told me, the first time he was seen, Klaus was waiting for the group up above their position.  He had started the hike from a more challenging but direct route and easily made up for lost time.  Klaus dropped me off and we agreed that he would pick me up at the same spot around 4:00 in the afternoon.  I had about six hours to explore Lake Königsee on my very own... on my very own!  I suddenly realized as Klaus pulled out of sight that this would be the first time I would be totally on my own without any translation help to fall back on. My sidekick and German language crutch Wendy was nearby but about 2,000 plus feet above me somewhere on the mountainside.  However, since it was a popular tourist attraction, there must be at least a few people who could speak English.  Either way, it would be a good test for a total tourist novice in a foreign land far from home.  I would survive... I hoped! 

 Alpine Lodge near Lake Königsee

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My first task at hand was to backtrack away from the lake and walk back the same way in which Klaus had just driven.  Earlier, on the way into the area we passed some beautiful Alpine homes located in a buttercup and wildflower-filled meadow that looked like they operated as overnight lodges for tourists.  I decided it was worth the hike in the opposite direction to get some pictures while I had the opportunity and began the half mile walk down the road.  There was a walking and bike pathway that paralleled the road in the shade making it a nice stroll to the meadow where I captured the desired shots.  The traditional Alpine houses adorned with colorful flower boxes were my favorite photo op and it was well worth the walk to get them.  On the way back toward the lake, I noticed a small parking lot full of vehicles and what appeared to be a large group of men playing some sort of game concealed by the trees along the edge of the road.  Upon closer inspection it seemed to be an organized league of teams playing bocce ball on several parallel courts.  I watched for a few minutes and they all seemed to be having a great time but also obviously took the game very seriously.  It was another scene of life in Bavaria I stumbled upon that would be foreign in the United States.  Soon I was back at my starting point and began the walk down toward the lake on the single lane to the dock. The wide paved walkway was flanked on both sides with all kinds of shops selling food, traditional clothing, and everything in between.  The choice of "food" won the contest of possibilities, as my first order of business was to get something to eat before I cast off on my lake cruise adventure.

Traditional Brat in a Round Roll

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I was looking for something easy and stopped to see the same street vender from whom I had purchased a bratwurst previously during our class trip pit-stop at the lake.  There were only two choices.  All I had to do was point to the desired item and pay with a five Euro bill, knowing the cost was less and would get change.  I was learning little tricks to help compensate for the liability of my language barrier.  The traditional bratwurst was served in a round hard roll topped with yellow sweet mustard.  It was delicious and hit the spot but I wondered why they never modified the shape of the bread to parallel with the long slender shape of the brat?  I guess that's why they call it a traditional bratwurst!  I was sure Wendy was probably watching me from high above with binoculars so my next purchase was to get some ice cream to satisfy that mandatory law.  I ordered my favorite Magnum ice cream bar from another sidewalk vender where I could serve myself from a refrigerated case so no words were necessary.   Now that my essential needs were satisfied, I had to confront the hard part... purchasing a tour ticket for the cruise across the lake.  Luckily, there were several signs by the ticket office in multiple languages and I eventually found the one with the British Flag that gave some basic information about the two different port destinations on the lake where you could go ashore and explore.  The confusing part was trying to decide which of the three passenger classes to choose and from what I could tell, the only real difference was the price.  The info signs seemed to indicate they all stopped at both locations and all the boats coming and going nearby, looked completely identical.  I wanted to be sure a third class ticket would get me all the way to the far side of the lake and attempted to ask an attendant the difference.  Unfortunately, she only restated from the script in broken English what was already written on the sign.  Any question beyond the advertisement, went unanswered.  So, I decided to play it cheap, rather than safe, and went for the third class ticket hoping it would indeed, take me all the way to the far side of Lake Königsee.

Tour Boat Arrives Toward Port

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The scenery was magical with the tranquil lake surrounded by towering sharp cliffs and rugged mountains that crested high above.  I found the way to my designated boat launch and was one of the first to board, with the option to choose any seat.  I settled on a spot near the front by a window without glass so I could get some good shots with my camera without glare.  It was another clear and sunny day but a humid haze had settled above fading the sharpness of the mountains in the distance.  The boats were a classic old school style from a bygone era with the bottom hulls painted bright white and the wooden cabins richly colored with natural stain.  All the boats were exactly the same giving the group of neatly maintained ships the uniformity of a fleet.  The bulk of the lake remained hidden from view as the channel leading to Lake Königsee curved around a very small island known as Christlieger, which displays a statue of Saint John of Nepomuk, patron protecting against the dangers of the water.  The 12 foot high marble statue has been watching over the opening to the lake since the year 1711.  The boats arrived and departed without sound, silently gliding across the surface of the water adding to the lake's enchanting atmosphere.  King Ludwig II of Bavaria wanted Lake Königsee to remain forever unspoiled and forbid gasoline powered watercraft on the water after 1909, mandating all boats to be powered by pollution free electric motors.  Today Lake Königsee, which roughly translates to King's Lake, claims to be the cleanest body of water in all of Germany.  The boat soon filled to capacity and with our passage booked, the boat silently edged away from the dock and began its voyage through the winding channel.

 Looking Back at Königsee Village

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We rounded Christlieger Island and soon approached an opening between two sharply rising parallel cliffs that made the lake resemble more of a Norwegian fjord, common in Scandinavia.  The lake itself is about a mile across at its widest point and almost five miles in total length.  The lake is extremely deep with an average depth of 320 feet and a maximum of 620 feet at the lake's deepest point.  The most striking characteristic of the lake is the surreal deep emerald green color of the water that is consistent throughout the entire lake.  The green color comes from salt minerals that have dissolved in the water and project the unique green hue when the sun's light reflects off the lake's surface.  The lake is flanked on both sides by the most majestic and highest mountains I have ever seen.  It was interesting for me to see the mountains of the Waltzmann Range from their lowest point on the water after seeing them from their highest level when visiting Eagle's Nest the previous week.  It was amazing to be looking up at peaks that were close to 9,000 feet above me, which appeared to touch the sky.  I can't believe I am here!  About half way to our first stop we came to a point of the lake where sheer rock cliffs rose from either side.  The boat was brought to a stop and a crew member stood up on the bow with a trumpet and sounded some notes, which echoed across the lake.  The sound bounced back and forth off the facing rock walls becoming softer with each pass.  The sound could be heard for a total of seven passes over our boat positioned in the center of the lake.  It was a really cool demonstration but I later learned that before they used a musical horn they used a cannon.  That would have been way cooler!

Another Tour Boast Passes Aft

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There were a lot of other boats of the fleet out and about on the lake, each taking different routes spaced far apart.  Some hugged the shore, while our vessel seemed to head straight down the center of the lake bed.  Soon the distant outline of the famous church came into view ahead of our position, known as Saint Bartholomä.  The small church was named for Saint Bartholomew, the Apostle patron of alpine farmers and dairymen.  The famous isolated church also known as Königsee Chapel, appeared to resemble the Orthodox styled churches usually seen in Russia.  The chapel had several large rounded onion domes nestled within its wall design and also appeared on top of two slightly taller towers.  The church itself was painted bright white, standing out in strong contrast to the deep dark red of the rounded domes and roofline.  The chapel is the destination for Catholic pilgrims each year on August 21st, who hike from the Austrian village of Maia Alm near Salzburg, across the Berchtesgaden Alps, all the way on foot to Saint Bartholomä.  As many as 2,000 people make the challenging trip, a hike of over nine hours in length.  However, I'll bet Klaus could get there in less than half that amount of time, even if he took a more challenging route just for the fun of it!  The boat began its approach toward the western landing point on the small peninsula that contained St. Bartholomä with the intimidating rock face of the Waltzmann Massif looming high overhead.  My 35 minute ride had come to an end and it was time to go ashore to see what else I could discover.

Saint Bartholomä / Königsee Chapel

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Please stay tuned for the next installment of our adventure!

Saint John of Nepomuk

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