An American in Germany / Part # 31 / Burghausen-3

GAPP Exchange Journal 2012

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Burghausen / Burgfest / Part #3

 Burghausen Castle / Keep Tower
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Andy and I had just completed a quick personal tour of Burghausen Castle's inner courtyard and accompanying buildings, which encompassed the private residence of the lords and ladies associated with the Duke of Bavaria.  It was time to exit the area of the main castle to begin making our way back through the five individual courtyards that ran to the north of our present location.  We crossed back over the drawbridge and went in search of Angela and Leo who were somewhere within the massive biergarten within the First Courtyard.  As we gazed over the expansive seated crowd, we noticed a few familiar faces from KKG, our host school located in Altötting, Germany.  We found Angela and Leo with another really familiar face, my co-chaperone Wendy, who was surprisingly all decked out in traditional dress!  One of her German friends had convinced her to go native to save some money on the admission fee to the Castle Festival.  Anyone wearing a historic costume could get a discount to attend Burgfest.  She was looking very Bavarian, naturally merging with the old world setting in her customary black and white dirndl dress.  Wendy and I briefly exchanged a little conversation and a few laughs before I snapped a few pictures that have since been destroyed.  Apparently, Wendy deemed the pictures personally embarrassing and I was later forced to exchange them for my plane ticket home.          

Angela... Leo... Where Art Thou?
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Reunified as a family, we now began the trek back out through the busy crowds toward the far gate that served as a portal to the modern world.  The kids were getting tired, including me!  Once again we were within striking distance of the food vendors and their intoxicating aroma was pulling me forth.  Once again trout and other various meats were roasting over an open fire.  The trout was literally "reeling" me in but since we would be walking and not seated at a table, the thought of trying to navigate through all those bones without a fork got me off the "hook".  Ok, I'll admit, that was a pretty lame play on words!  I settled on a delicious grilled steak sandwich topped with a tangy sauce in a long crusty role that was easy to eat on the go.  We said goodbye to our KKG friends including Wendy, whom I would see again Monday morning, the first of our final two days of school before we would be heading home.  With my sandwich in one hand and camera in the other, I tried to capture as much of the beautiful courtyards as possible.  One of the important items on the remaining agenda for my tour of Burghausen Castle was a souvenir pin to add to my collection of all the historic sites I have visited over the years.  I found a small, one room shop selling a few items and quickly popped inside to see if they had my pin.  I was in luck! I was able to find a pin at almost every place I visited during my trip.  Later, they would all be added to the pin banner hanging in my classroom that displays my full collection.  Score!

Hedwig Jagiellon and Georg the Rich

(Image Credit / Bavarian Palace Department)

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The most famous resident of Burghausen Castle's long history was Georg the Rich, the Duke of Bavaria, who ruled the area in the middle of the 15th Century.  The most celebrated event during his reign was his marriage to Princess Hedwig Jagiellon of Poland in 1475.  The marriage ceremony took place in the Bavarian city of Landshut and became known as one of the most important festivals of the Middle Ages.  The medieval wedding pageant was attended by over 10,000 people from all over the known world at the time.  Over the years, the Landshut Wedding has been reenacted and celebrated from time to time but ever since 1985, it has been celebrated in grand fashion every four years in the historic old city of Landshut.  The city of 60,000 swells ten fold during the three week celebration in early August.  The next Landshut Wedding festival is scheduled to take place during the summer of 2013.  Georg the Rich and his lovely bride had three sons and two daughters but none of their sons lived to adulthood to continue his dynasty.  When Georg the Rich died in 1503 he was legally prohibited from passing on his lands directly to his daughters but tried anyway by attempting to pass the duchy to his daughter Elizabeth and her husband.  A war broke out over this act, breaking the empire into smaller pieces that were divided up and seized by other dukes.  However, one section of Georg the Rich's former duchy remained in the hands of Elizabeth's oldest son Rupert.  Just one example of the constant change of power and control over the ever evolving political landscape of Europe.  Eventually the most powerful dukes would become kings, which would keep the physical land intact by transferring power to a single individual through their bloodlines when they died.  Usually the oldest son would inherit the throne, if there was a male heir, or they would resort to the family tree to find the person most closely related to the deceased monarch.

Interior Courtyard Residences

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We continued on our way toward the far northern gate of the Fifth Courtyard where the Middle Ages ended and the 21st Century began.  As we walked along the busy main thoroughfare through the castle grounds, I continued to be surprised by the beautiful and historic residential housing we discovered nested within the defensive walls.  Without warning, the landscape shifted from a scene containing imposing structures of war to tranquil stone farmhouses accompanied by flower filled meadows.  The castle was truly a hybrid structure in the realm of the here and now, serving as a historic landmark and living space for a group of local citizens of Burghausen simultaneously.  It was a unique marriage between history and modernity that somehow seemed to work hand in glove.  I can't imagine Fort McHenry in Baltimore Harbor housing full time residents in the military barracks or underground bunkers, while also catering to tons of tourists.  The residents of the castle courtyards must get tired of visiting tourists trekking through their front yards on a daily basis, looking in windows, and maybe even knocking on doors.  I often wondered at the level of patience a person would have to posses to live within an active tourist attraction.  The full time residents of historic Elfreth's Alley in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania would be in a similar living-history environment.  It would have both pros and cons but you would really have to love history during the three days of the Castle Festival.  If not, you might have to leave the area, take a vacation, and maybe travel to Philadelphia to violate the privacy and the patience of the residents of Elfreth's Alley!  Revenge is a dish best served cold!

Armor and Arms Dealer

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Ok, since I was in the shadow of the Interrogation Tower of the castle, time for another quick confession... Years ago, I took my 125 + students on a day trip to tour historic Philadelphia with the help of my fellow teaching colleagues.  We split the kids into two groups and I was in charge of leading a walking tour of what is often called America's most Historic Mile.  It is not easy to keep the attention of one single fourteen year old under the best of circumstances, let alone sixty kids walking through a big city filled with millions of little distractions.  I led the way, while my fellow chaperone teachers corralled the kids from behind to keep the herd together and go after any strays that got separated from the group or attempted a break for freedom.  I knew it would be difficult for the kids to hear me during my brief presentations along the way, so I brought along a small battery operated bullhorn to help project my voice.  I know... I know... what you're thinking but I was very conscious of when to make my short presentations to the group, often finding a quiet spot away from the mainstream whenever possible.  I introduced Elfreth's Alley to my students in front of a warehouse before we actually turned the corner to enter the alley and gave the kids a quick lesson as well as a warning on field trip etiquette so they would respect the residents of the oldest continually occupied street in America.  We walked through to the other end without incident and I gathered the group within a small parking lot to give my summation and reveal some points of interest.  In the middle of my dialogue, an elderly woman interrupted me to inform me I was violating City Ordinance #583902B+G to the third degree regarding noise pollution within a residential district.  I thanked her for the information and continued my script while 65 kids stared as she started to heckle me. I was in a power struggle with a 90 year old lady who was now threatening to call the cops.  I kept my remarks brief because the kids were no longer hearing a single word I said andwere most likely listening for approaching police sirens.  I cut my losses and made a fast getaway to our next stop, to avoid Philadelphia's version of the Interrogation Tower!  It was probably the only thing the kids remembered from the trip but I will admit... It is a great story!

Making New Friends in Burghausen

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Along the way, I met up with a group of friendly Orks who had stopped in for some grilled fish on their way back to Mordor.  I told them I hadn't seen Frodo, Gollum, or Gandaulf all day but did say to be sure to give Sauron my best when you see him again.  I noticed they were all starring at my gold wedding ring but they eventually moved on, pulled away by the smell of roasted fresh fish.  The hobby of reenacting the Middle Ages is becoming more and more popular every year throughout Europe.  The Lord of the Rings trilogy films directed by Peter Jackson and the original series of books written by author J.R.R. Tolkien has helped fuel the interest level in all things Medieval, Middle Ages, and Middle Earth.  As a Civil War reenactor, I could see a lot of similarities with my historical hobby back in the States, which also takes place on battlefields and historic places of interest.  Same hobby, different time period, gear, and setting.  It's a great way to learn about history and fun to play soldier with a group of your friends, just like you did as a kid.  The events also seem to run Friday through Sunday, just like they typically do in places like Gettysburg.  Ironically, the 149th Anniversary of the Battle of Gettysburg was celebrated and reenacted a few days earlier back in my home state of Pennsylvania.  Just as it would be difficult to explore all that Gettysburg has to offer in a single afternoon, there was so much to see and do within the castle that it was impossible to experience it all in a single visit.  This is probably why many people attend events like the Battle of Gettysburg and Burghausen's Castle Festival year after year as a summer family tradition.  There is always something new to see, eat, and discover.   However, I would suggest skipping hard tack biscuits in Gettysburg and traditional spreads made from animal fat in Burghausen. 

Historic Parade Procession

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After getting back home to Pennsylvania, I researched the castle more in depth when writing this blog posting using the German Palace Department's website to help guide me.  I discovered a list of all the additional attractions I missed seeing during my afternoon tour of the World's Longest Castle.  If I ever get the opportunity for a return visit I would love to climb atop the large observation deck located above the main castle that touts amazing views of the surrounding landscape from every angle.  Another key section of the castle grounds worth exploring is the Eggenburg Watch Tower that looks out over Lake Wöhrsee to the east.  Once upon a time the five story tower was fortified with guns and was the first defense against foreign invaders.  The tower is accessible from the main castle by way of a secret passageway in the form of a hidden tunnel.  That's cool!  There are also all the museums to explore found throughout the castle complex.  By 1780 Burghausen Castle had lost its role as a critical fortress with Austria gaining control of lands on the other side of the Salzach River.  As the government took control of the lucrative salt trade, the city lost their main source of income and the castle began a slow decay into a state of disrepair.   In 1809 the castle was occupied by Napoleon during his war against the Austro-Hungarian Empire but the castle was no longer considered a military asset due to its poor condition.  The castle that was once considered one of the strongest castles in the world was now re-purposed into barracks for military troops for the next two decades until the garrison was permanently dissolved.  The castle was then in danger of being razed but the townspeople stepped in and fought to save it from destruction.  The first renovations began in 1896 and continue to the present day.  Sometimes the best decisions and ideas come from the average person!

A Couple Explore the Courtyard

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As a continuous student of history, I am always amazed by the "Power of Place" and the feeling you get from standing within a sacred space where famous people once stood long ago.  Standing within a castle where Napoleon once gazed across the Bavarian and Austrian landscapes was awesome.  I had the same feeling sweep over me when standing on the bridge in Regensburg where Crusaders once crossed on their way to the Holy Land, looking at the house in Branau where Adolph Hitler was born, and while praying in the small chapel in Altötting where Pope John Paul II once prayed.  It is impossible to describe to others, what is something one can only appreciate in person with their own emotions and experience.  We had finally made it all the way back through the labyrinth of never ending courtyards to the final threshold of the Fifth Courtyard.  We stepped through to the other side and entered another dimension called the Modern World.  We walked back down through the quiet city streets toward the underground parking garage.  We descended the steps into the lot and found the car wedged within its tight space.  Somehow Andy had contorted his body and enter the car through the driver's side door.  Angela then got behind the car to coach Andy out of the space to avoid the vehicles on either side and a large pole supporting the roof.  The kids and I watched from a safe distance in fascination, watching Angela's complex string of hand and leg gestures.  If I wasn't in charge of watching the kids, I might have been tempted to steal second base.   Eventually, Andy eased safely out of the space and we could all enter the vehicle for the relaxing ride home through the countryside bathed in the colorful fading sun of late afternoon.  Another fantastic day!

Angela Coaches Andy's Exit

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 Please stay tuned for the next installment of our adventure!

PLEASE SEE MY ADDITIONAL PHOTOS
ASSOCIATED WITH THIS BLOG POSTING AT...

http://www.flickr.com/photos/mrjmartin/collections/72157632715223198/

YOU CAN ALSO CHECK OUT THE WHOLE SERIES IN ORDER AT...

 https://www.warwicksd.org/teacherweb/module.php?id=7644&tid=241  
 

An American in Germany / Part # 30 / Burghausen-2

GAPP Exchange Journal 2012

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Burghausen / Burgfest / Part # 2

 Burghausen Castle Above the Salzach

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It was the middle of the Castle Festival taking place within the extensive fortress walls, towering overhead the historic city of Burghausen.  The Galneder Family had taken me out to experience the history of Bavaria in a unique and rare setting by visiting the thousand year old stone structure known as the World's Longest Castle.  The half mile long medieval castle had come back to life for a brief three days in early July, as it does every year for the annual Burgfest Faire.  Andy, Angela, and their children Leo and Amalie were guiding me through the crowded outer courtyards as we slowly made our way toward the main section of the castle located on the far southern end of the narrow ridge above the city.  We were traveling the same route of a friendly procession of allies, making our way through the castle's outer defenses on our way to visit the resident lord and lady of the keep.  A foe may also have attempted to fight his way toward the castle, attempting to capture the string of outer courtyards one at a time.  Each courtyard extending away from the castle's stronghold was once gated with drawbridges, moats, and other barriers.  The sections were constructed separately over time and each seemed to become more imposing, protective, and secure than the previous.  As we made our way through the gate into the Fourth Courtyard, we were looked over by two guards protected by armor and armed with formidable halberds.  Andy asked for a photograph of me and the watchmen and told them I was visiting from America.  I was a little concerned I would now be seen as a foreign enemy in the process of a one man attempted invasion.  However, the guard who wasn't wearing an all concealing helmet laughed and I instantly felt more at ease.  I concluded my ultra cool German style hat was my key to entry, since I looked so Deutsch, I was quickly transformed from American into ally.

Castle Guards Detain a Suspect

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Just inside the Third Courtyard is the former Interrogation Tower, which now houses the Torture Museum, which thankfully is a private collection and not open to the public.  I was experiencing medieval history up close and personal but my curiosity had it limits.  I had little desire to experience the wrath of the rack, although I did try to think of any crimes I might confess if detained within the tower.  Thankfully, I couldn't come up with anything worth mentioning aside from my secret trip to McDonald's at Lake Königsee, where I sinfully divulged in American fast food by devouring a Big Mac in record time.   However, I concluded... what happens in Lake Königsee... Well you know the rest...  Happy to have the ominous tower behind me, we passed by a long and narrow building that paralleled the interior castle wall on the opposite side of the courtyard.  Although previously torn down during the 19th Century, the stable and elevated grain barn formerly known as the Haberkasten, was rebuilt during the 1960's.  The exterior of the building was reconstructed to every historical detail to match the original but the interior was modernized, now housing an active theatrical academy.  The city below was well known as a cultural center for the arts, an attraction that equally pulls tourists to the area from far and wide.  The reinvented dance school was a great example of how to preserve the site's historical past, yet also have the space serve a supporting role to fullfill a vital need in the modern community.  Well done!

 Peaceful Aventinus House

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On the opposite side of the Third Courtyard was a beautiful stone residence known as the Aventinus House, which once served as the home of the local castle chaplain.  The house was one of my favorite features of the entire castle as it was a historically old building but beautiful in its simplicity.  The house was isolated from the other crowded sections of the outer courtyards, possessing a unique openness that stood in contrast to the protective feel of other areas within the castle.  Aventinus House appeared as if it could easily have been located in the rural countryside.  Flanked by beautiful flower filled gardens and groomed slate walkways, I was in envy of anyone who had the privilege to call such a residence home.  Part of the first floor that served as a carriage house once upon a time, now may have housed a automobile as a converted modern garage.  However, in the historic spirit of the Castle Festival, the modern modes of transportation of the current residents discretely remained hidden from view.  Continuing onward we passed multiple artisans and craftsmen selling their wares, which would be typical of a real faire during the Middle Ages.  Several minstrels and organized musical groups entertained passersby with authentic song and dance of the time period, adding to the festive atmosphere of the scene.  Other vendors were selling historic foods and drink in the form of draft beer from large wooden kegs while several varieties of grilled meats sizzled over open fires.  Several cooks roasted what was called Steckerlfisch, various species of skewered fish over a wood charcoal fire pit, which were constantly rotated by hand to ensure they cooked evenly.  Patrons from every time period were drawn in by the intoxicating aroma.  It looked delicious and I was more than tempted but we continued onward to pass into yet another vast courtyard. 

The Interior Townsfolk

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Soon we came upon a Medieval scene of town-folk living within the castle walls which supported the important permanent residents, most of whom were wealthy and living in the most well protected section at the extreme southern end within the main castle.  Craftsmen were making repairs, artisans constructing their goods, and foodstuffs were being gathered and stockpiled.  Several ladies were selling some of their traditional edible creations and Angela wanted me to try what she described as a very Bavarian customary food.  She purchased a slice of bread lathered with a thick layer of some type of creamy brown colored spread.  It resembled some type of wet peanut butter and had a nutty, oily taste that was not much to my liking.  Angela revealed that it was a old traditional Bavarian spread made from animal fat.  I was instantly grossed out and tried not to think too much as I passed it to Angela who finished it off with a laugh!  Wendy... Help!  I passed up grilled trout for nutty flavored animal fat?  Angela was expecting, so I chalked it up to one of those bizarre cravings she must fall victim to on occasion!  She was genuinely sorry and equally surprised I did not care for it.  According to the worldly web scholars of Wikipedia, it might have been something called Griebenschmalz, which roughly translates to the English word of "gross".  I was instantly reminded I was in a foreign country but when in Bavaria...  It was hard to get the taste out of my mouth so I purchased one of my favorite pretzels as an anti-venom agent, which helped a little... a little.  Griebenschmalz was probably the main reason why Italians invented Nutella in the 1940's as an delicious alternative to creamy animal fat!  Nutella is a thick chocolate spread made from hazelnuts, cocoa, and skim milk that has become very popular as an essential item on kitchen tables across Europe.  It is very popular with kids... like me and is even becoming a common sight in the United States.  Nutella resembles thick dark chocolate cake frosting and is good by the spoonful all by itself for a quick treat!  Whoops... was that another confession?  Let's move on...    

  

Colorful Tents of the First Courtyard

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 As we entered the Second Courtyard, which is the smallest of the five spaces, we were confronted with the muscle of the castle's military weaponry.  The wall bordering the Salzach River contains three small evenly spaced watch towers that were once armed with loaded cannon ready for action.  On the opposite stone defensive wall was the large rectangular castle arsenal known as the Kurzer Kasten where additional cannon and smaller arms were stockpiled below with vital food grains stored on the upper floors of the structure.  The large stone building absorbed most of the open space within the Second Courtyard.  As we approached the gateway to the final courtyard's entrance, the tower of the master gunsmith loomed overhead.  The First Courtyard was large and open and filled to capacity with festival participant's tent encampments and people from various time periods seated at endless tables consuming food, drink, and conversation in great quantities.  Individual groups were appearing in parade dress along the main thoroughfare led by their regimental flags and marching to the cadence of the unit drum core.  For the first time of our journey, the impressive interior structures of the castle itself came into full view.  The high outer walls of the famous Georg's Gate had the power to impede our quest to gain access to the main castle.  A drawbridge spanned a wide and deep ditch that separated the First Courtyard from the interior residence of Dukes and Lords.  At one time, the ditch may had been a moat filled with man eating crocodiles, sharks, and piranha but today the dried out space housed additional Burgfest attractions.  The opened drawbridge also provided the best view of the colorful town of Burghausen below along with the border of the Salzach River and Austria on the far shore.

Approaching Drawbridge of Georg's Gate

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Angela and Leo found seating at a table with friends within the First Courtyard's large biergarten, while Andy, Amalie, and I ventured across the drawbridge and passed through the portcullis of Georg's Gate.  The interior recesses of the castle were unlike anything I have ever before had the privilege to experience or explore in person.  The buildings within the space of the main castle contained the official residence of the Duke of Bavaria and accompanying royal court.  One of the first buildings we encountered within the castle courtyard was the large structure known as Knight's Hall, which is one of the oldest parts of the castle, first constructed in the middle of the 13th Century.  The heated space provided dining and meeting quarters for members of the resident Duke's inner circle on one side, while separate similar facilities known as Women's Hall were reserved for the official ladies of the court.  Andy had Amalie in the stroller so I climbed the steps and entered the dining hall on the second floor alone, only to discover I had just walked in on a official state dinner.  Lords, vassals, knights, clergy, and ladies in waiting dined on the finest cuisine of the day.  The group was spread throughout the vast space, seated along one side of long interconnected wooded tables, covered with fine lace tablecloths.  A group of minstrels behind me broke out into sudden festive song and dance to entertain the distinguished guests in attendance... including several visitors from modern times, like me!  

Five Star Dining Castle Style

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After a few minutes, it became sadly apparent the group of prominent party goers were not going to ask me to join their dinner reception.  I later learned the first floor area of the hall below me that once was used to store provisions had been converted into the Bavarian Palace Department's visitor center and gift shop.  I wish I had time to explore it because I love a good gift shop but it was time to leave Knight's Hall and find Andy outside in the courtyard.  The wealthy ruler ironically named Georg the Rich constructed an inner space known as a keep to house the royal treasury.  The keep's solid iron clad door was propped open to reveal another gate constructed of thick interlocking iron bars that was locked shut to bar entry.  A few feet inside the recesses of the keep was a large open wooden chest overflowing with white cloth bags tied shut with twine.  The bags were no doubt filled with gold and silver coins, most likely collected tax revenue, courtesy of the lucrative local salt trade.  The keep's door was surprisingly unguarded.  I hypothesized the knights were now probably unionized and partaking in their mandatory ten minute ale break, guaranteed in their collective bargaining contract?  I was tempted to pull on the iron gate of the treasury to see if I could help myself to some booty without anyone noticing.  However, common sense dictated this may be a test and not wanting to get hit in the back with an arrow bolt from an unseen archer or wind up in the Interrogation Tower for an extended stay... I just continued on my merry way.  

Interior Castle Courtyard

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I met up with Andy and Amalie and it was soon time to make our way back to Angela and Leo, so we went into overdrive to see the rest of the castle's interior courtyard spaces.  A large structure known as the Bower was directly opposite of Knight's Hall.  An amazing arched stone enclosed walkway spanned the courtyard, connecting the two large buildings together.  The Bower once served as living quarters for family, friends, and visitors of the Duke of Bavaria.  Today the Bower houses yet another modern day museum within the castle known as the Burghausen Municipal Museum.  Next was the beautiful inner castle chapel known as Saint Elizabeth, which was directly accessible by the Duke and his family from their private residence within the Palas located next door.  The Palas or palace, contained the Great Hall and prestigious apartments of the royal family, which served as their main living quarters.  Today the large space contains... you guessed it, another museum.  The Castle Museum and State Gallery features 56 panel paintings depicting scenes of life in Bavaria and Austria from the 17th Century.  The full historic themed art collection fills three floors of the impressive structure.  Unfortunately, we were out of time so Andy and I quickly retraced our steps back to the entrance of Georg's Gate.  In conclusion, the main section of the castle was amazing, appearing to have been carved from a single gigantic stone of solid rock.  Each space was independent in style and purpose, yet were all seamlessly conjoined together into a single interconnected geological mass.  How they managed to construct such a huge structure with limited tools and technology was truly spectacular and awe-inspiring.  Tune in next time as we reverse course to navigate our way back toward the modern world.

   Steckerlfisch / Grilled Fish on a Stick

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Please stay tuned for the next installment of our adventure!

PLEASE SEE MY ADDITIONAL PHOTOS
ASSOCIATED WITH THIS BLOG POSTING AT...

http://www.flickr.com/photos/mrjmartin/collections/72157632715223198/ 

YOU CAN ALSO CHECK OUT THE WHOLE SERIES IN ORDER AT...

 https://www.warwicksd.org/teacherweb/module.php?id=7644&tid=241  

An American in Germany / Part # 29 / Burghausen-1

GAPP Exchange Journal 2012

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Burghausen / Burgfest / Part # 1 

 View of Burghausen Castle from Austria

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We were in the final week of our time in Bavaria and the window to see any remaining sites on my list was closing quickly.  I had traveled in a car through the city of Burghausen several times on the way to other destinations, always hoping for an opportunity to return to explore the area in more detail on foot.  The crown of the community was the impressive hilltop castle that runs the length of an elevated ridge above the historic city.  A few days earlier, I was able to photograph the large main section of the castle from a distant hillside in Austria.  Since then, I had hoped I would get the chance to return to tour the interior of the impressive fortress.  Thankfully, I was about to get my wish.  The Galneder family was taking me out for an afternoon visit to see the famous Burghausen Castle and just by chance, there was a major festival taking place!  We loaded the stroller into the trunk, followed by Leo and Amalie into their car seats, and finally gave them each their pacifying bottle of apple juice.  Locked and loaded, Andy guided the Opel van out of the driveway and onto the open road... We were off on yet another adventure into Bavaria's rich history!

 View of Burghausen Castle from Germany

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We drove out of Tüßling and through the beautiful Bavarian countryside, which resembles a patchwork quilt of farms, forests, and small quaint villages.  Within a few minutes we were crossing the Alz River and were soon approaching the outskirts of the city of Burghausen.  The ancient city is located directly on the edge of the Bavarian shore of the Salzach River, which serves as a natural border between Germany and Austria.  We approached the city from a direction which I was not previously familiar and suddenly the extensive walls of the castle came into view off in the distance to the left of the roadway.  We stopped at an observation point, which provided an excellent view of the hilltop fortress from a distance without any obtrusive sign of the modern world.  The surrounding hillsides were a bright healthy green with grass and trees flanking a tranquil lake that served as one of the outer defense barriers designed to slow invaders of long ago.  With Lake Wöhrsee complimented by the Salzach River on the opposite side of the castle, the heart of Burghausen resembled a well defended island.  After a few pictures, we jumped back into the Opel to look for a crack in the town's outer defenses.  We hoped we could slip through without notice from potential archers nestled within the castle's towers.  It was a little intimidating.

Burghausen High Tech Parking

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Andy pulled the van into an underground parking lot that turned out to be immense in size and served the dual purpose of concealing hundreds of modern vehicles from public view.  The lot was packed and appeared full but drivers were guided to open spaces by way of a small light that appeared above each space.  Red lights marked spaces that were already occupied and the green ones, which were sparse this afternoon, designated an available slot.  The overhead lights were helpful when peering down the long row of parked cars ahead, as the view of any open parking spaces would normally be blocked by all the parked cars.  The green light on the ceiling in the distance let you know which way to go to find an open spot.  The clever system was connected to several strategically placed electronic signs displaying how many spaces were available in each direction.  Andy eased the Opel into an open space and the green light went red.  Parking spaces are much smaller in Bavaria than the United States and you often have to maneuver your vehicle into position through trial and error.  Often passengers exit the vehicle before the delicate dance begins, since the vehicle is often so tightly nestled into the parking space, it would be difficult to open the doors on both sides!  We emerged from the underground parking garage via a wide stairwell out onto the upper streets of Burghausen.  The city streets were quiet and vacant of normal activity with most people attending the Castle Festival.  Many of the people we did see out and about were dressed in Medieval and Renaissance style dress, coming and going from the castle gate.  Apparently, you received a discount on the admission fee if you attended the Castle Festival in historically appropriate dress.  I was surprised how many people were all decked out wearing authentic looking costumes, which really enhanced the historic atmosphere of the castle.  However, wearing my Carhartt t-shirt, cotton shorts, and newly purchased German style white hat, I was forced to pay the full tourist price!

 Castle Burghausen Exterior Courtyard Walls

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The site where Burghausen Castle resides was first settled as early as the 8th Century and grew over multiple centuries to eventually become known as the longest castle in the world.  The ever expanding castle went through its largest growth span between the 13th and 15th Centuries.  During this extensive building phase, most of the thick stone walls, observation towers, and various other fortifications were constructed, giving the fortress its impressive hard shell.  Some of the castle's walls are over 16 feet thick (5 meters) making it one of the strongest castles in the world during the Middle Ages.  Over a period of several centuries, the entire ridge above the Salzach River was fortified, creating five additional exterior courtyards flowing north away from the main castle courtyard.  The castle and accompanying walled sections extend over a half mile in length (1,051 meters) resting high above the historic community of Burghausen.  Following an extensive restoration period that encompassed over a half century to complete, 90% of the castle and supporting structures have since been preserved to their original state.  The castle now includes several museums, one of which is dedicated to the castle itself, while others house prized art and photograph collections.  However, the true highlight of the site is the castle itself, designed as a complex and defensive tool of war. 

      

 Castle Festival Encampment

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We entered the far northern end of the extensive hilltop castle and the interior walled space was packed with visitors from ancient and modern times alike.  The Castle Festival, also known as Burgfest, is an annual summer tradition for three days in early July.  The scene reminded me of the Renaissance Faire held on weekends every fall at the Mount Hope Estate and Winery back home in Pennsylvania.  However, this was on such a grand scale, far beyond anything I could ever have imagined!  It was amazing!  Hosting a Renaissance Faire in an actual real-life castle multiplies the coolness factor of the event by at least ten fold!  The first thing we encountered upon entering the outer most courtyard was a historic encampment filled with canvas tents organized in a rough circular pattern.  As a Civil War reenactor I really admired the attention to detail invested by the participants of the group to make their campsite as authentic as possible.  The iron cookware in use over an open fire, period correct weaponry on display, and a detailed historic ensemble of supporting accessories completed the scene.  Even the acting participants themselves were dressed in authentic costumes from the Middle Ages with every possible detail of ornamentation included to give the illusion an enemy threat may actually exist.  The group's sacred colors in the form of flags and banners were proudly on display to reveal the identity of their legion.  The civilian and soldier reenactors naturally moved about the camp without script, giving the scene an element of realism.  The encampment's culminating details successfully provided the visiting crowd a view through a window of history, revealing a moment in time from an era long past.

 

 Minstrel Serenades the Crowd

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We continued walking through the outer most Fifth Courtyard, absorbing all the history contained within... there was a minstrel playing the harp, merchants selling their handcrafted wares, fair maidens conversing with lords, and traditional foods being prepared over open charcoal fire pits.  Little Leo was quickly drawn into a colorful tent selling old world play weapons carved from wood.  He carefully surveyed the items available and selected two essential tools associated with knighthood.  Leo emerged from the tent well armed with a wooden sword and matching shield displaying a bright red dragon.  I instantly felt safer with Leo, now well armed, escorting me on foreign soil as we approached the gateway to the Fourth Courtyard.  His younger sister Amalie remained in the stroller and appeared perfectly content with her bottle of juice.  She was making me thirsty and all in attendance from past or present seemed ready to partake in the abundant availability of cold beer.  We passed by a large biergarten that was filled to capacity with patrons seated on long wooden benches, nested around crowded tables full of cheer.  I noted one table was occupied by several knights, who appeared to be in no shape to defend the caste!  Thank goodness little Leo was on patrol, alert, and ready for action!

Grilled Meat on a Stick

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We continued past the crowded biergarten looking for another spot to grab a bite to eat.  We soon came to an area off to one side where a crowd of people gathered to watch a puppet show from a small box shaped theater.  The two old world characters seemed to be having an argument of some sort but it was hard for me to follow since the dialogue was in... you guessed it, German!  However, it seemed to have a happy ending and it was fun entertainment for me and the other kids in attendance.  After the show, Andy was able to secure table space for five in the shade of a small seating area where food and drink were readily available.  The Galneder extended family squeezed in to share a table with another family and were soon approached by a bar maid from the 16th Century.  She looked good for her age.  With our beverage order taken, it was time to take turns to explore the various food stations to purchase nourishment.  The food choices appeared to be authentic period fare of the Middle Ages but for a carnivore like me... it was all good!  Grilled meat on a long wooden skewer topped with a hearty bread roll, it was like fast food to go from long ago!  Hey, that rhymes...  It was simple and delicious.  Leo was content with a small sausage on a roll and his little sister Amalie... Well, she could eat almost anything and be happy.  It's one of the reasons why we got along so well...  It was something we had in common!  You Go Girl!

 Castle Living Quarters and Gardens

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As we ate our meal, I noticed the space was flanked by large stone interconnected buildings that appeared to have been converted into modern housing units that remained hidden behind the historic facade.  The building had several balconies on the second floor that contained beautifully manicured potted gardens with colorful flowers overflowing from their decorative containers.  Down below, were more substantial gardens growing vegetables and other hearty plants, protected behind a tall wooden picket fence.  It appeared some of the castle's former living quarters that once may have housed tradesmen, merchants, shopkeepers, and countless others who once supported daily castle life over the past centuries were now re-purposed as apartments.   Old world seemed to meet the new as the castle was still alive with continuous life, housing a much more modern group of residents who today call Burghausen Castle, home.  A woman and her cute dog appeared within a second story window, surveying the festive carnival scene below.  I could only imagine what her apartment looked like on the inside... was it historic, ultra modern, or a combination of the two?  Either way, it would be an awesome address to call home, with sweeping views of the river valley below in both directions.  Now that we had eaten, it was time to move onward toward the southern end of the castle complex.  There was still so much to see with several more courtyards and the main section of the castle still to explore.  Leo with sword in hand led the way toward the next gateway.  Tune in next time as we further penetrate the interior defenses of Burghausen Castle...

Castle Apartment Terrace

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Please stay tuned for the next installment of our adventure!

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An American in Germany / Part # 28 / Salzburg - 3

GAPP Exchange Journal / 2012

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Hellbrunn Palace / Salzburg, Austria

Hellbrunn Palace, Salzburg Austria

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We had just finished touring the impressive hilltop fortress that crowned the Austrian city of Salzburg and were now back on the bus heading for one more historic stop before we would head back home to Bavaria.  As the tour bus, full of both American and German students, continued to distance itself from Salzburg, the watchful gaze of the castle fortress above seemed to observe our movements from its hilltop perch.  Within a few minutes, we pulled into a long driveway that took us back to an old palace estate that had been used during the filming of the classic film, The Sound of Music.  The palace is known as Hellbrunn and was constructed by the Bishops of Salzburg as a daytime retreat during the warm months of the year.  We exited the bus and followed the path to the palace courtyard where tickets could be purchased for the guided tour through the extensive gardens.  I was a little concerned when we were instructed to leave all non essential items on the bus, especially electronic devices but I wasn't about to leave my camera behind.  When asking both Herman and Wendy the purpose of the warning to leave things on the bus, the only answer revealed was a somewhat sinister smile!  Something was up... but what?  I guess time would tell but my curiosity was getting the better of me as I attempted to unravel the mysterious riddle as we waited for the guided tour to begin.  

Map of Palace Estate Grounds
(Image Credit / Schloss Hellbrunn)

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The palace known as Hellbrunn was first built in the southern district of Morzg in the year 1613 and received its name from the underground spring of clear water found on the property.  This would eventually be the source for the multiple fountains found throughout the estate.  The purpose of the yellow painted stucco palace and extensive accompanying gardens was to serve the local church and political leaders as a summer day residence, where they could entertain various visiting guests.  All visitors would have to return to the city of Salzburg each evening, as there are no bedrooms found within the palace.  The palace is most famous today for the trick fountains located throughout the estate gardens, noted on the site map above by small round green dots.  Markus Sittikus was a prince who became the archbishop of Salzburg in 1612 and began work on Hellbrunn the following year.  The entire project was completed in just three years and stands as a monument to the fun loving demeanor and reputation of Archbishop Sittikus as a practical joker.  He would build the estate with the intention of creating a palace like no other in the world.  He would achieve that end with the help of the underground powerful water spring of Hellbrunn by creating a series of surprising trick fountains.  Like many of the guests of Markus Sittikus and countless tourists over the last four centuries, I would soon become a victim to the legacy of the fun loving archbishop!

Outdoor Garden Dining Table Fountain

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As we ventured through the front gate and started the tour, we were hit once again with another warning delivered by our tour guide concerning unnecessary items.  Although it would spoil the surprise, I needed to know what was up and asked one of our German students if they had ever visited Hellbrunn before and was my beloved camera going to be safe?  My inquest revealed the threat of getting wet from unseen fountains cleverly shrouded from obvious view throughout the tour.  The English speaking guide led us to our first stop a short distance from the palace.  It was a beautiful outdoor dining area complete with a large stone table and accompanying stools where the arch bishop and guests may have enjoyed an outdoor lunch or discussed business.  I was searching for the source of danger but could detect nothing obvious but took cues from the German students who may have been wiser concerning safe locations to stand.  The tour guide invited several of the students to have a seat around the table as he explained the history of the space.  Only American students emerged from the crowd as volunteers or in this case... targets!  At first nothing happened as the guide went through his detailed monologue description.  However, without warning, water suddenly sprouted upward with amazing force from an incredible number of hidden jets embedded within the tiled floor, table, and even the chairs themselves.  The students all jumped up trying to escape the cold spring water but were hit multiple times as they retreated quickly back into the laughing crowd. 

Cascading Fountains of Hellbrunn

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One lucky student bold enough to take the seat at the head of the table, which would have been reserved for the archbishop, stayed dry.  He had selected the only seat at the table without a hidden jet, even though it was an exact duplicate to all the other stools.  Apparently, Marcus Sittikus was not interested in becoming a victim of his own pranks and had a safe zone built within each design that he reserved for himself.  Smart!  As we followed the guide along the pathway our senses were heightened, searching for any spot that may contain a cloaked water jet.  We passed by other structures as the guide continued his monologue, just waiting to get sprayed but nothing happened.  Was the dining table the only prank location?  Our next stop involved the group walking down a walled pathway to a small cube shaped building.  As we stepped into the foyer of the space and began to turn to the right, jets suddenly went off without warning, soaking the victims sporadically with cold spring water.  Trying to study the pattern and find a safe way through the impending gauntlet of concealed jets was useless as new jets randomly revealed themselves from every possible direction.  It was sheer luck to get inside the structure's main room without getting hit!  I was now wet but not soaked.  It actually felt good on this hot and humid day that had already brought intermittent rain showers to the Salzburg area.

Interior Water Jet Display

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Thankfully not all the amusement water jets were out to get you... Once inside the main room of the structure, we were all instructed to gather around a center mound, which we all expected to explode into a geyser and flood the entire room at any second.  However, as the guide worked a series of hidden controls, a golden rounded pyramid shaped sphere gently rose into the air, suspended by a single jet of water from the mound below.  The water exhaust sprayed directly downward, surprisingly keeping everyone watching the display dry for at least the time being.  It was a joy to watch the graceful rise and fall of the crown, dependent on the level of water pressure under the control of our friendly guide.  The guide informed the group that the rise and fall of the crown symbolized the rise and fall of political power.  After the show, I explored the remaining spaces within the small building but managed not to trip any hidden jets.  The group walked out the entrance of the building and we were spared from getting sprayed a second time by the previous nuisance jets.  We walked back up the walled pathway to the main route and were suddenly under attack without any chance of escape.  It resembled a long arched trellis sprinkler system blocked by parallel walls.  As the great American poet Robert Frost said, the only way out is through!  And, since we had entered through the same walkway only a few minutes earlier without incident, we incorrectly assumed we were safe!  Note to self... Don't let your guard down under any circumstances!

Trick Fountains / Wet... You Will Get

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I soon figured out a safe spot to stand was anywhere near the guide who was completely bone dry.  I guessed he was most likely taking the safe spot at each fountain previously designated for the archbishop.  Following my discovery, I stayed within his shadow for the rest of the tour and avoided being a flood victim for the remainder of our visit.  Several other displays included water powered mechanical theater scenes, including five small grottoes, depicting artisans and craftsmen working their trade.  Each scene was brought to life through the use of carved wooden figurines that were animated through the movement of pressurized water from the spring.  Although over 400 years old, the preserved mechanical scenes all worked flawlessly.  They served as an introduction to the main event a short distance away.  The large mechanical theater display was truly amazing and my favorite part of the estate tour.  The large doors of the enclosed theater stage were opened to reveal a busy scene of town life from the time period when Hellbrunn was built.  The scene contained multiple exposed buildings several stories high, depicting a town square busy with activity.  There were over 200 figures in all, each moving to the sound of traditional folk music provided by a water organ.  It was an amazing thing to watch with your eyes struggling to take in all the complex movements of the individual characters.  The theater was first created in 1750 and continues to be solely powered by water and air.  It was mind boggling to think someone could create such a complex display of interconnected, individual, and animated creations hand carved from wood.  I wish my daughter Katelyn could have seen it in action!  I captured a video of most of the show, trying to zoom in on the individual sections in an attempt to capture the detail of the characters and their unique movements.  It was very cool!

 The Large Mechanical Theater

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We continued to complete the circuit of fountains and then went out to explore the extensive trout ponds and wide open green spaces beyond.  We took a few moments to get a great group portrait of the German and American students together in the garden, a cherished image of their shared experience together.  As we exited the garden area we came upon the most recognizable feature at Hellbrunn palace, the famous gazebo pavilion from the Sound of Music.  Time to get another song from the film stuck in your head that will play on a continuous loop for the next 24 hours...  Sixteen going on Seventeen was one of the most popular songs in the movie, sung by the story's young lovers Liesl and Rolf, as evening darkness fell on the garden.  Come on, you remember the scene...  As the rain began to fall, they took refuge in the gazebo, and continued singing the song.  Nearing the end of the song, Liesl famously leaps from one stone bench to another around the interior perimeter of the pavilion supported by the steady hand of Rolf.  A drenched Liesl eventually ended up in Fraulein Maria's bedroom, who once again saved the day without being a tattletale.  A soaking wet Liesl?  Can everyone see the irony here?  Several of our damp students could have used the assistance of a helpful governess supplying towels or dry clothing.  Fortunately, the afternoon sun eventually broke through the grey cloud covered skies to help dry us all out!  

German / American Exchange Student Partners

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We never got to see the interior of the palace, which can be seen by way of a self guided audio tour using an electronic device provided by the palace.  It was probably a much dryer tour route enclosed by protective walls from the threatening water jets just outside... but who knows?  Apparently there is also a popular zoo located near the palace grounds but, unfortunately, we were out of time.  Our fun filled tour of Hellbrunn Palace had come to an end and it was time to head back to the bus and return  to König-Karlmann-Gymnasium school in Altötting, Germany.  What a day!  We had seen so much!  All that was left to do was to slump down into my bus seat, close my eyes, and listen to the memorable Sound of Music soundtrack playing round and round in my head.  Please... Somebody make it stop!

Sound of Music Gazebo Pavillion

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Please stayed tuned for the next installment of our adventure!

 PLEASE SEE MY ADDITIONAL PHOTOS
ASSOCIATED WITH THIS BLOG POSTING AT...

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YOU CAN ALSO CHECK OUT THE WHOLE SERIES IN ORDER AT...

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Sixteen Going on Seventeen
(Film Still Credit / 20th Century Fox)
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